From France to Naples: Scotland's last World Cup changed my life

Joining the Tartan Army for Scotland‘s last group game at France ’98 was a dream come true for a then 21-year-old Alan Weir.

It felt unbelievable to be part of the pre-match scenes and the fans’ march to the Stade Geoffroy-Guichard in Saint-Étienne.

Even the result – a 3-0 defeat to Morocco that sent Scotland crashing out of the competition – could not dull his emotions.

The experience would inspire Alan to make some major life choices – including quitting his job to see the world.

France ’98 was the last time Scotland men’s team competed at a World Cup.

Travelling to Saint-Étienne 28 years ago, Edinburgh-born Alan was immediately caught up in the build-up to Scotland’s final group showdown.

“The feel-good factor was unbelievable,” he recalled.

“There were people hanging out of windows waving Scotland flags, it felt like the whole city was behind us.

“The euphoria of being there was like nothing I’d ever experienced in my life”.

Life as a Scotland fan can go from ecstasy to misery pretty quickly.

The defeat sent Alan and the rest of the Tartan Army home before the postcards, once again.

But the trip had sparked something in Alan.

He wanted to see more of the world, and in 2000 took a youth group from his home area of Muirhouse on a trip to Germany.

In the same year he left his job as a youth worker to travel more.

“The World Cup was the biggest thing in my life from when I was a kid and I think I learned about so many countries through the World Cup – I wanted to go abroad.”

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He initially planned to spend time in Germany, but while there his path crossed an Italian, Piera, and he was soon on the move again.

He visited her home near Naples, and took in a clash between Napoli and Juventus.

The couple quickly became an item, and Alan fell “madly in love” with Naples and the city’s football.

Images of Argentina and Napoli legend Maradona were everywhere – and years later they would be joined by those of a new Napoli icon – Scotland’s Scott McTominay.

Alan’s passion for Scotland had not diminished and he was on the road again to take in Scotland matches in San Marino and Zagreb in an ultimately unsuccessful 2002 World Cup qualifying campaign, before returning to the south of Italy.

He said: “I wanted to go back for two reasons – I wanted to be with Piera and the other reason was that I missed Naples.

“It opened my eyes to the world. When I came here it was love at first sight.

“Naples reminded me of Leith when I was a kid – big characters – and I just felt really at home.”

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With help from Piera and her family, Alan learned Italian and began to fit in with the local culture rather than stick out.

“Now they call me “O’ Scozzese Napolitano [The Scottish Neapolitan],” said Alan, who works as a learning and assessment consultant for a UK publisher.

Alan and Piera now have their own family – three children – who share their love of Scotland and football.

There has been much excitement in the household since Scottish internationals Scott McTominay and Billy Gilmour signed for Napoli in the summer of 2024.

Alan was on the city’s streets resplendent in a kilt and Napoli shirt last year when the pair helped inspire the team to the Serie A title, with McTominay scoring an acrobatic opener.

“Having two Scottish players on the pitch for Napoli when they won the league – in a footballing sense it was the proudest day,” said Alan.

“That goal, I can’t describe the feeling, but then he did it again for Scotland against Denmark.

“I think McTominay feels a love here. They absolutely adore him.”

Looking back on France ’98, Alan said his life had changed a lot.

“I’ve got married and had a family, met a lot of amazing people, been to a lot of beautiful places and fallen more and more in love with the south of Italy,” he said.

Alan, who will be watching this year’s World Cup from his home in Italy, added: “I’m very grateful for what I’ve got.

“Family comes first and football a close second.”