Hello and welcome to the 2026 edition of Fansville Field Trips! If you are unfamiliar with this series, here is our mission statement:
I have a friend group that attends one big non-Tech college football game per year and we intend to document those experiences here. You can expect some fun tailgating stories, some hot takes, some fawning over stadiums, and some ramblings about “atmosphere”, but most importantly you’ll find the honest account of a few guys on a quest to experience all that the wild and wacky world of College Football has to offer.
If you’re interested in the previous written installments of the series, check them out here:
2024: Colorado vs Utah (includes recaps of 2023 and 2022)
For this 2026 edition we set our eyes on one of the most famous stadiums in the world, home of the 2023 national champion Wolverines: Michigan Stadium.
Thursday, 8:41am: Jack shares a playlist of Michigan-themed songs to get us in the mood.
Thursday, 12:25pm: My Lyft picks me up to go to the airport, the trip has begun.
Thursday, 1:07pm: I meet up with Stephen who checks my bag for me because he has privilege. An emergency alarm is blaring through the airport for the first 10 minutes after I arrive.
Thursday, 2:50pm: Stephen upgraded himself to first class and is seated next to none other than CBS’s Brad Nessler.
Thursday, 5:23pm: The guy in the row in front of me is asking ChatGPT if we’ve deciphered orca language.
Thursday, 5:30pm: We meet up with Jack at DTW. Stephen reveals a note Mr. Nessler wrote him (on custom stationary) with recs for Ann Arbor.
Thursday, 6:00pm: We are picked up by Joe in our Kia Carnival that reeks of cigarettes, let the festivities begin.
Thursday, 6:36pm: After passing 11 liquor stores, we arrive into the city of Detroit proper and make our way to our hotel, the historic David Whitney.
Thursday, 7:05pm: On a recommendation, we make our way to Buddy’s for square pizza. It was pretty good, though I think the square is just not my thing. The highlight (lowlight?) of this visit though was forcing Joe to order the “Lion’s Roar” cocktail; it was bourbon and blue curaçao and BOY was it vile. Anyone that drinks this by choice does not deserve Jahmyr Gibbs.
Thursday, 8:21pm: We pop over to Saksey’s, an underground speakeasy-style cocktail bar in an alley. The security guy at the locked door made a big deal of checking if there was availability for us, but there were only about 5 other patrons when we got downstairs. Still, it was a neat place. Great vibes and a delightful cocktail menu.
Thursday, 9:16pm: We go for a night cap at The Bastille, which was sold to us as a dive bar but it’s really just a bar bar. The beer was very cheap, and they had a gumball machine that dispensed a handful of trail mix.
Friday, 9:05am: Jack gets back from an 18 mile run (elite sicko) as the rest of us are waking up.
Friday, 9:45am: We get breakfast pastries and coffee at Cannelle before hitting the road. It was a delightful little bakery and the perfect start to our day.
Friday, 11:45am: We make it to Ann Arbor, our first impressions are that it is a beautiful town and campus. It’s pretty much the platonic ideal of a “college campus”: big quads, ivy growing on brick, fall leaves, etc. The law library is especially stunning. There’s also a local bank with “is your bank spending millions sponsoring the Buckeyes???” billboards all over town. As it turns out, Chase Bank is the jersey sponsor of Ohio State.
Friday, 12:47pm: We are again annoyed at how awesome other schools’ stores are – they have every merch item you could ever want from every brand you’ve ever heard of, along with plenty of stuff no one could ever think of wanting. Do better Tech, please, I am begging to give you money.
Friday, 1:15pm: We arrive at the Brown Jug. Absolutely cackling at the idea of Harbaugh eating 10am burgers here and causing his downfall by purchasing one for a recruit. Every single item on the menu is named for a famous Michigan alum, including stuff like the “MIKE BOTTOM’S STEAMED BROCCOLI” and “KRIS MAYOTTE’S YOGURT PARFAIT”. Not really sure how they determined the hierarchy of who got a burger and who got the rice pilaf.
Friday, 2:33pm: Side Biscuit is calling our name for wings. You can trust our Atlanta-nourished opinions here: these were incredible. We tried OG buffalo, buffalo with lemon pepper, and gojuchang.
Friday, 3:16pm: It starts raining so we grab an uber to our next stop, it’s a minivan that smells like a zillion cigarettes. Cigarette cars were a constant theme of the weekend.
Friday, 3:28pm: We get a drink at Grizzly Peak Brewing.
Friday, 4:59pm: We eat far too much ice cream at Washentaw Dairy. A “single scoop” is what a normal person would eat in three servings. Also you can buy a bottle of wine here. This was Joe’s childhood ice cream shop so it was a nice sentimental visit.
Friday, 5:49pm: We pull up at the hotel and realize it’s the same one that the Penn State team is staying at. We’re probably too old for shenanigans like fire alarm pulling.
Friday, 6:45pm: Rocco Becht is in the lobby talking to a group about, I am not joking, how to demonstrate a throwing motion.
Friday, 7:07pm: We go check out EMU’s gray field in nearby Ypsilanti, it looks insane. Whoever came up with this is demented.
Friday, 8:15pm: Our dinner reservation at The Earle, which was absolutely fantastic. The sommelier looks exactly like Ben Franklin.
Friday, 10:43pm: The bass in the Uber home is like those videos where the car shakes apart, I can’t hear myself think and I can feel my bones rattling.
Saturday, 9:08am: Gameday donuts, a tradition we try to keep when we can. The guy at the coffee place was wearing a Sea World Abu Dhabi hat.
Saturday, 11:15am: Arrive to campus, no clouds in the sky, a chill in the air, a glorious gameday.
Saturday, 12:15pm: Pop into Ashley’s for a beer (or two) and lunch on Brad Nessler’s recommendation. It was a solid college town bar.
Saturday, 2:45pm: March with the band to the Big House. Good lord it is big and it is packed. Also the band is sick.
Stream of conscious notes from the game:
- First penalty of the game and someone nearby yells “don’t do dumb shit!”
- First drive of the game Penn State marches all the way down the field only to get stopped on the 5 for a FG.
Punt team came out on the 36 yard line and the whole stadium erupted in boos, guy in front of us exasperatedly yelled “I’m so tired of Whittingham”. This is his sixth game.
Stephen turned around and started talking with the guy behind us that was claiming he could hit a 55 yard punt.
Everyone booed for punting on their own 35.
Guy in front is furious about not running down the field. He also wants them to pass down the field, but I’m not sure he knows Bryce Underwood cannot do that.
The whole stadium is booing the offense nearly every drive.
Everyone is screaming for a deep ball, Bryce tries one and it’s one of the most insanely unlucky interceptions you’ve ever seen, bouncing off the receiver’s foot into the waiting hands of the DB.
Offense is getting booed every other play, they are truly disgusting to watch.
Teams got in a fight on the sideline after a bit of a late sideline hit on Underwood and the guy next to me goes “kick 19 out PLEASE”, that got a good chuckle out of me.
VICTOR THE FRISBEE DOG, what a good boy.
Driving at the end of the half, Penn State DB got a preposterous TD-saving one handed pick, absurdly electric.
0-3 at half, Michigan has 80 total yards, yuck.
In the bathroom line, a guy in a ND is chirping two Michigan fellas saying “I grew up on pond hockey, I can skate backwards”.
Update from 5 minutes later, these guys are now screaming obscenities that I cannot post on here at each other in the bathroom.
Immediate booing on the first drive of the second half.
Stephen bought the $50 all you can eat popcorn helmet bucket, some guy called him an idiot for it.
Bryce Underwood benched, vibes are bad.
Touchdown Blue! The Wolverines have come alive under backup QB Tommy Carr.
Everyone is doing a coordinated dance, but most people are doing it like they’re sleeper agents that have just been woken up.
We’ve given the popcorn helmet to a child.
The guy in front of us is yelling about how Mr. Brightside is a “bad song”. He’s wrong of course.
Michigan’s punter is absolutely awful.
Probably game-saving strip sack deeeeep in Penn State territory.
Enjoying this article? Support our work with a small crypto donation.Tommy Carr is HIM, the Bryce Underwood era is over.
Rocco Becht has thrown some horrific balls.
Number 0 is Penn State’s entire offense.
Michigan’s number 3 has been in absolute hell all afternoon.
Time to sweat out the onside kick.
Michigan finally eclipsed 300 offensive yards on their final real play of the game and nearly put themselves back under it with a kneeldown.
First penalty of the game and someone nearby yells “don’t do dumb shit!”
First drive of the game Penn State marches all the way down the field only to get stopped on the 5 for a FG.
Punt team came out on the 36 yard line and the whole stadium erupted in boos, guy in front of us exasperatedly yelled “I’m so tired of Whittingham”. This is his sixth game.
Stephen turned around and started talking with the guy behind us that was claiming he could hit a 55 yard punt.
Everyone booed for punting on their own 35.
Guy in front is furious about not running down the field. He also wants them to pass down the field, but I’m not sure he knows Bryce Underwood cannot do that.
The whole stadium is booing the offense nearly every drive.
Everyone is screaming for a deep ball, Bryce tries one and it’s one of the most insanely unlucky interceptions you’ve ever seen, bouncing off the receiver’s foot into the waiting hands of the DB.
Offense is getting booed every other play, they are truly disgusting to watch.
Teams got in a fight on the sideline after a bit of a late sideline hit on Underwood and the guy next to me goes “kick 19 out PLEASE”, that got a good chuckle out of me.
VICTOR THE FRISBEE DOG, what a good boy.
Driving at the end of the half, Penn State DB got a preposterous TD-saving one handed pick, absurdly electric.
0-3 at half, Michigan has 80 total yards, yuck.
In the bathroom line, a guy in a ND is chirping two Michigan fellas saying “I grew up on pond hockey, I can skate backwards”.
Update from 5 minutes later, these guys are now screaming obscenities that I cannot post on here at each other in the bathroom.
Immediate booing on the first drive of the second half.
Stephen bought the $50 all you can eat popcorn helmet bucket, some guy called him an idiot for it.
Bryce Underwood benched, vibes are bad.
Touchdown Blue! The Wolverines have come alive under backup QB Tommy Carr.
Everyone is doing a coordinated dance, but most people are doing it like they’re sleeper agents that have just been woken up.
We’ve given the popcorn helmet to a child.
The guy in front of us is yelling about how Mr. Brightside is a “bad song”. He’s wrong of course.
Michigan’s punter is absolutely awful.
Probably game-saving strip sack deeeeep in Penn State territory.
Tommy Carr is HIM, the Bryce Underwood era is over.
Rocco Becht has thrown some horrific balls.
Number 0 is Penn State’s entire offense.
Michigan’s number 3 has been in absolute hell all afternoon.
Michigan finally eclipsed 300 offensive yards on their final real play of the game and nearly put themselves back under it with a kneeldown.
Saturday, 8:30pm: We cannot find a single place in Ann Arbor to trade money for food with.
Sunday, 9:55am: We tiredly make our way to brekkie in Ypsi at Bird Dog Baking. I wanted every single loaf of bread they had on display, it all looked divine.
Sunday, 11:35am: We arrive at the rental car facility and Joe departs on a bus going to a different terminal.
Sunday, 12:02pm: I don’t have pre-check so I have to walk through the Westin hotel lobby to get to a side security checkpoint that has nobody at it. It is no more than 25 feet from the closest hotel room door.
Sunday, 1:15pm: Jack and Stephen and I sit down for some airport Japanese, Stephen is very regretful of his teriyaki chicken order that included a side of plain baby carrots.
Sunday, 2:11pm: Jack makes it onto an earlier standby flight and even gets a comfort plus seat. The Atlanta fellas move on to our gate on the literal other end of the mile-long terminal.
Sunday, 6:25pm: After a plane, a train, and an automobile, I arrive back at the homestead dead tired. Another excellent trip comes to its close.
Much like campus was the platonic ideal of a college campus, the game was the platonic ideal of the Big 10. Both teams were disgusting on offense, content to run for two yards at a time for most of the afternoon. Before being benched for the second half Bryce Underwood’s line was 5/11 for 43 yards and 2 INTs. Tommy Carr wasn’t much better at 5/7 for 47 yards but he at least was good enough to spark some kind of offensive heartbeat. Idk what Michigan does with Underwood at this point; he’s clearly way below average, but at an alleged $3M/year you need to get something out of him. Larry Ellison must be a pretty awful businessman if this is the kind of production he so badly wants to invest in.
In addition to the Underwood woes there wasn’t much to love about any aspect of the Wolverines’ offering and the fanbase tension was palpable. It’s crazy how emphatically and often they booed for a program that won a national title extremely recently. I’m not sure if it’s a Whittingham issue, an OC issue, a personnel issue, or what, but there were a lot of bad vibes, which is a shame for such a historic program. Still, I’m glad they pulled out the win, maybe they’ll improve as the season goes on.
Everyone agreed that the Lion’s Roar at Buddy’s was traumatic (asked for comment, Joe had this to say: “I’ll never forget it”). At the Earle though, Jack ordered an Old Fashioned that was described as having been “Chilled by the legendary Arkenstone”; he said it was delicious and perfectly chilled.
After the game we went down to the field to look around. We saw people taking pictures with the Nittany Lion, hesitated on whether or not we wanted one, and he walked away. I on a whim shouted LION and he whipped around and came over to us so we could take this excellent picture:
- The concierge at the David Whitney for providing us with a plethora of good recommendations.
The uber driver who accomplished our 27 minute drive to the hotel in 14 minutes.
Brad Nessler for being cool and taking the time to write a hand-written note of recommendations.
The concierge at the David Whitney for providing us with a plethora of good recommendations.
The uber driver who accomplished our 27 minute drive to the hotel in 14 minutes.
Brad Nessler for being cool and taking the time to write a hand-written note of recommendations.
The actual physical structure of the Big House is surprisingly not all that big; it’s sunken below ground level so it’s very low-profile. Once you get inside though you understand: there is nothing in there but people. There are no gaps in the bowl, no big walkways or open-air, it is wall-to-wall top-to-bottom fans packed like sardines. My shoulders were touching both of my seatmates for the entire game. The other thing that adds to the effect is the lack of ads, screens, or signage. There are two enormous video boards behind each endzone and that’s it. Even the name is perfectly simple – Michigan Stadium. No sponsor, no nothing, just the stadium where Michigan plays.
It’s easy to see why this is such a loved stadium. It’s unassuming but grand, and it feels historic in all the right ways. It kind of reminds me of Fenway in that sense – it feels like a true destination with character and charm, yet it also feels beautifully local right in the middle of a neighborhood. Especially with how often professional teams nowadays are building soulless behemoths covered in screens, places like the Big House are important.
This one has been on our list since we first conceived of these trips and it absolutely lived up. The stadium was great, the campus was great, the town was great, everything was great. As always we had some good food and met some nice people, and the weather was perfect. Stay tuned for 2027: I’m currently in pole position to select the next location and I’m feeling Big-12-y.
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