I went to a Michelin-star dinner in Athens where no dish was as it seemed — and that was a good thing

• I went to Makris Athens, a Michelin-starred restaurant in the shadow of the Parthenon.
• Chef Petros Dimas’ playful and imaginative dishes are a breath of fresh air in the world of fine dining.
• Dimas is committed to showcasing Greek ingredients and cuisine, and he delivers beautifully.

Chef Petros Dimas wanted the restaurant’s menu to illustrate the “depth and beauty” of Greek ingredients.

“Mushrooms remind me of foraging trips in the mountains with my father,” Dimas later told me. “The foam on top is made from milk infused with truffle and mushroom, to mimic the look of coffee but taste completely different.”

The soup tasted rich and deep, each sip full of umami thanks to the truffle shavings. The accompanying brioche feuilletee pastry was crunchy and airy, the perfect balance of texture and flavor.

The scallop course was another standout.

Our fourth course was a scallop swimming in an incredible sauce of pumpkin and lime. The combination was unexpected but extremely delicious, with the lime adding a zing of acidity that balanced the sweetness of the pumpkin and scallop.

“I want to bottle it up,” Peter said as we tried to capture every last drop.

Our bread course came with a menu of olive oils to choose from.

I’ve never seen an olive oil menu at a restaurant before, and I thought it was a lovely way to show off the bounty of one of Greece’s most famous ingredients.

Our server recommended Dr. Kavvadia — an olive oil from the island of Corfu — and poured it into a glass bowl decorated with leaves from Dimas’ farm.

It paired beautifully with the warm sourdough bread, as did the butter plated to look like a flower.

The meat and fish courses were beautifully presented, although less memorable.

Dimas’ dishes told a clear story throughout the first half of Genesis, showcasing his love for Greek ingredients in a playful way that felt refreshing in the space of fine dining.

Our seafood and meat courses — a supplemental red mullet cooked with its scales and a Hellenic pork iberico — were more traditional. They were cooked well and had a nice flavor, but were pretty forgettable. Both dishes are no longer on Makris’ menu, which I think was the right decision.

The chocolate chessboard dessert was a return to playful form, and a magical way to end the meal.

After a refreshing palate cleanser of strawberry and balsamic vinegar sorbet, our server presented Makris Athens’ signature dessert with theatrical flair.

The chessboard, which featured a chocolate rook and horse scattered among real pieces, unlocked my own childhood memory. My uncle had taught me how to play chess during my summers in Greece, and I often played matches with him and my dad. To see the board again on my first trip back in over a decade felt kismet.

Our night ended with one last illusion, gold coins made of chocolate. It was a delightful end to an even more delightful dinner.

Dimas is all too aware that Greek cuisine, beloved as it may be, is frequently underestimated.

“For a long time, Greek food wasn’t seen as something that could stand behind the great cuisines of the world,” he said. “But I’ve always believed in the depth and beauty of our ingredients and traditions.”

That conviction shines brightly throughout Dimas’ dishes, constantly tickling the imagination and taste buds. I felt a surge of pride as I ate his food, just as he did when Makris Athens received its first Michelin star in December 2024.

“Getting that recognition showed that Greek cuisine can be refined, creative, and world-class without losing its soul,” he told me.

Makris Athens is full of soul, for sure, plus plenty of surprises and nostalgia. I think it’s a worthy stop on your next trip to Athens — just get gyros for lunch.

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