'It's very Bond': Fashion experts on the England squad's off-pitch look
All eyes may be on the pitch when England men’s team line up for their opening World Cup game against Croatia in Dallas.
But it’s their fancy threads, as well as their fancy footwork, that’s had people talking – from their official off-duty smart casual look to collaborations with a skateboard brand that’s seen designs sell out within days of being launched.
Gone are the days when the team would be seen in a traditional three-piece suit.
Instead there is a collection of 12 mix-and-match pieces in navy and cream from Marks and Spencer, the FA’s official partner, with not a tie in sight, all accessorised with loafers.
A tie-in with Nike and skateboarding brand Palace saw many items sell out on their launch – with the team having worn a pale grey Palace tracksuit to arrive for a pre-World Cup friendly against Costa Rica.
And there were baby blue Nike tracksuits on show as they stepped off their plane on arrival into the US for the tournament.
What does their current look say about where England – and its fashion – are at?
Celebrity stylist Alex Longmore, who has worked with stars including Vogue Williams, Little Mix and Jamie Laing, said the overall vibe was “quite commercial” and covered “every aspect” of men’s clothing.
“You’ve got your smart casual, very Tom Ford, very Bond look – it’s relaxed, it’s incredibly wearable, it’s aspirational.
“I think it’s very modern, Italian chic, very of-the-moment.”
She compared their slip-ons to boating shoes by Tom Ford and Jimmy Choo.
“They’re very Upper East Side, Hamptons – it’s kind of European, which is an interesting look and obviously very easy to wear and on trend.
“It’s not shouting mega-formal, ‘we’re the England squad and here we are feeling a bit awkward because we’re sportsmen’. It’s more like luxury, with wool and sports jackets.”
As for the fact the team isn’t wearing a formal suit, which some on social media complained was not smart enough, Longmore says: “Not many men wear suits unless they’re going to a wedding or funeral.
“And with more working from home, smart-casual is more relaxed now on every level.
“Athletes’ bodies don’t look their best in suits, they can look a bit bulky, so trousers can fall a weird way. This look is moving with the times.”
Celebrity stylist and Vogue contributor Marian Kwei says the modular look, with interchangeable pieces, is “designed with players in mind, but more importantly to push the narrative of individuality and style.
“Sports athletes have become visible with brand influencing, they’re content creators in their own right,” she adds.
She says the choice of loafers helps the look appear “approachable” and easy, alongside “a more relaxed cut” of their jackets and trousers, and notes that the players “have their own spin on what they’re wearing”.
Carolyn Mair, a chartered psychologist and author of The Psychology of Fashion, says the team uniform from Marks and Spencer is “a very smart, business-casual look – it is masculine but absolutely not aggressive”.
She adds: “It’s showing their confidence, they’re successful – quite discerning with the styling.
“And not overly corporate, because they’re not wearing ties – they have polo shirts and round-neck tops. It reduces the social distance from people, we feel closer to them.”
She highlights the consistency of their look, saying this shows not only group identity but also “shared values”.
“We imagine these people are very much cohesive not just in their values but their behaviours,” she adds.
“It doesn’t look like any one of them is out there trying to get attention as the superstar of the group. It’s a levelling of the playing field.”
As for the collaboration with London-based Palace, Longmore says: “It’s going to be massive. They’ve been so clever with their marketing campaign. There are some really cool pieces.”
She said the 90s feel could have been inspired by England’s performance in the 1990 tournament, when they came fourth.
“There’s a big fashion moment with the 90s coming back – but also in the World Cup, 1990 was when England got a long way. I think there’s a nod to that as well,” she adds.
Kwei describes it as “a seamless partnership” – citing a Palace pair of trainers inspired by a football boot.
“It’s a perfect instance of how to translate sportswear into desirable streetwear.”
She adds that the new partner could appeal to Gen Z – “helping introduce football and the World Cup to a new audience”.
Mair says the Palace tracksuit in grey again shows unity, with the chosen colour “very modern”. “It’s a neat move to work with a skateboarding brand,” she adds. “They look fashionable, but it’s not a trend.”
And their baby blue Nike tracksuit, worn as they arrived in Kansas City, Missouri, their World Cup base, also shows a lot of thought has gone into it, Kwei says, with the choice of colour being both formal and accessible.
“It’s quite fashionable – for a reason,” she adds. “It’s more youthful, it’s easier to connect with.”
Longmore says the tracksuit is “ticking all the boxes”, made with recycled materials and “super trending” tapered-leg trousers.
“It doesn’t necessarily shout ‘I’m an England supporter’ with a number seven on the back.”
Not everyone has praised it though. Anna Murphy, fashion director for the Times, called the “pale blue polyester tracksuit” a “monstrosity”.
But it’s how they play on the night that’s going to count.
Mair says the uniformity of the squad’s look shows they are “working together”.
“This is about performance, not being performative,” she adds.
“It looks like they are prepared to do a good job.”
Will this translate onto the pitch on Wednesday – and in the rest of their group matches? It’s all to play for.
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